From Assam with love

RAHUL VERMA comes away with a skip in his step after savouring eastern delights

One of the nicest things that's happening around is the opening up of regional food centres in Delhi. There was a time when the only regional cuisine we knew of was South Indian, and there too our knowledge was mostly superficial. But in the last few years, our state bhawans, once restricted to government employees of that particular state only, have been opening up to the public. And there's nothing quite as wonderful as eating the food of say, Tamil Nadu or Nagaland, cooked the authentic way.
But even more heartening is the fact that regional food is breaking out of state owned bhawans as well. Last week, my friend told me that a new Assamese eatery had opened up near Jawaharlal Nehru University. This, I later learnt, was located in the Assam Association office, and run by the association itself. The address is Srimanta Sankaradeva Bhawan, A-14-B, Satsang Vihar Marg, Qutub Institutional Area.
Directions
To reach this place, if you are going from the IIT Gate, take Aruna Asaf Ali Marg and move towards Vasant Kunj. Ignore the road going towards Katwariya Sarai and keep going straight. After a while you'll see the Qutub Institutional Area on your left. Look out for Sanskrit Bhawan. Take the first turning to the left after that. This is Satsang Vihar Marg. The third building on your left is your destination. The canteen is on the first floor. The place is clean and basic. There are tables and chairs laid out, and you can sit and eat a meal that will take you straight into the heart of Assam. The food is not just authentic, but delicious — and so reasonable that you almost feel bad you've eaten so much for so little.
We had been invited by the vice-president of the association, so our food was gratis in any case. But I was astounded when I heard the prices — a vegetable thaali is for Rs.75 and a non-vegetarian thaali comes for Rs.150.
Let me tell you what the thaalis consist of. The vegetarian one has a mound of rice, salad, two pieces of begun bhaja (or fried brinjal), a plate of masoor dal with nice juicy jackfruit seeds, khar (a wonderfully light dish cooked with soda-bicarb and green papaya), and lai pata, which is a much-loved saag of the East. The non-veg thaali has all this, and two fish dishes —– one plate of tenga fish, which is a light and tart fish cooked with tomatoes and potatoes, and another plate of mustard fish, prepared with a heady mustard paste, green chillies and mustard oil. If you want to add a plate of chicken to your meal, you can get it for Rs.75. Personally speaking, I found the chicken a bit too spicy.
I saw that people at other tables were asking for — and getting refills, though I suppose they wouldn't give you second helpings of the fish.
I really enjoyed my meal. The food was light and tasty, and quite like what you'd expect to get in Assamese homes. It left me with a happy feeling inside. When I went back home, my heart was doing a Bihu dance!